The Definitive Guide for Termite Control Process

The Definitive Guide for Termite Control Process


Mud tubesUnlike ants, termites do not ramble around on the soil surface or outside in the open. They will either tunnel through the soil or into timber (or other material) or else traveling inside pencil-size (or larger)"mud tubes" that they assemble from soil, wood contaminants and other materials. You will find these tubes on foundation walls, floor joists or different areas of the house.

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Break open the tubes to see if termites continue to be busy. An empty tube doesn't necessarily mean that termites are gonethey might have simply abandoned this particular tunnel. Termites often rebuild damaged tubes, and it can be another indication of current action. 'Old' tubes are sterile and crumble easily, leaving behind"etching" on the surface which could be visible for decades (an indication that a house had termite activity at some time).

Tubes which are found on ceilings or on upper levels of a building may indicate you have an aboveground ("airborne") infestation, i.e., the termite colony actually resides in the building and the termites are traveling up from the ground. Mud tubes built through an aboveground colony usually contain materials other than dirt, e.g., wood and sheet rock or whatever the termites are feeding on.

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In such situations, a comprehensive inspection may require elimination of siding or interior wallboards, etc.. More importantly for you, these aboveground infestations cannot be controlled using the usual soil treatment (see below) and are generally excluded from a termite contract warranty. In these situations, finding and correcting the moisture problem is the very first step to eliminating the termites. .

We tend to think of termites as feeding/injuring timber only. Termites actually feed on almost anything which contains cellulose, the main component of wood, including wood paneling, paper products, cardboard boxes, art canvases, the newspaper covering of sheet rock, carpeting, etc.. While foraging and feeding, they may tunnel through non-cellulosic materials, such as plastic and foamboard.

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In fact, the amount of harm that termites cause depends on many aspects. In areas with cold winter temperatures, termite activity (and feeding) often declines, but does not necessarily stop. If the termites are well-protected from colder temperatures (e.g., underneath a slab), then activity may official website continue year-round. From a practical standpoint, serious termite damage usually takes about 3-8 decades. .

There is no accurate method for determining the age of recently found harm. You need some reference point, you could try here i.e., some point in time when it was known that there was no damage to this specific wood. That can be one reason why annual inspections (and keeping your records of those inspections) are important. .

NOTE: These inspections are not a guarantee that you do not have termites or damage in areas which are not covered or not easily seen, such as inside walls. However, the inspections can reveal conditions that might imply that harm does exist and additional investigation is needed.

In case you have a termite protection contract, contact the pest control company quickly and arrange for them to take a look at the problem. If you do not have a termite contract, telephone 2-3 (or more) companies and have every one inspect your house and provide you with the details of their findings and any recommendations for a plan of action to fix any termite conditions they found.

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Termites do not cause significant harm in a short period of time, so spending a few extra days or even a couple weeks will not make any actual difference in terms just browse around this site how much damage occurs. .

Is there harm that should be repaired or at least examined by a contractor or engineer before control measures are performed

Simply spraying swarmers or the surface of available infested wood may kill the termites that you see now, but it does not block the infestation nor does it shield your house from potential attacks . The most common sort of termite treatment involves a"trench and treat" where a liquid insecticide ("termiticide") is applied to the soil surrounding critical areas of your house.

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The dirt is trenched 6" deep and approximately 4-6" wide. For houses with crawlspaces, the dirt along the interior foundation wall must be treated within 4 ft of identified signs of termite activity. In some cases, the soil around supports (such as piers) underneath the home are also treated.

When implemented correctly, this treatment forms a continuous chemical barrier that should prevent termites from reaching the foundation and piers in your house. .

Concrete slabs which attach to the house, for instance, a garage floor, or the slab of an earth-filled porch.

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